A Land Time Forgot: Fukushima

Before the nuclear disaster in 2011, Fukushima (福島県) was a well-known regional destination for its natural resources, and historic and cultural discoveries. As the third largest prefecture of Japan, it comprises three regions: Aizu (会津) in the mountainous west, Nakadōri (中通り) in the agricultural central, and Hamadōri (浜通り) in the east which is closer to the Pacific Ocean.

Ouchi Juku (大內宿) used to be the Shimotsuke Kaido route, where the feudal lords made their trips to Edo, until a new route was opened in the Meiji period. The temple at the top of the mountain offers a panoramic view. Today, residents obey the three principles, which is “no sell, no rent, no destroy” to protect the town’s historical characteristics which are over 300 years old.

Aizu-Wakamatsu (会津若松市) is known as the land of the samurai. Not only was the city one of the last strongholds in Edo, it was also one of the battlefields of the Boshin War between the ruling Tokugawa Shogunate and the Meiji forces. Once a site of fierce fighting, the Tsuruga Castle (鶴之城), aka the seat of the lords of Aizu, has become a cherry blossom viewing spot.

To reach the Aizu Sazaedo (会津さざえ堂), one can take a bus from Aizu-Wakamatsu Station to Mt. Iimori. Appearances can be deceiving. This three-storey pagoda-like temple resembles any other from the outlook, but one will discover its two sets of stairways spiral like the shell of a sea snail, which hence its name “Sea Snail Temple”, with 33 images of Kannon housed inside.

Speaking of Mount Iimori (飯盛山), why is is an iconic site for the Aizu people? During the Boshin Civil War in 1868, there was a military unit named Byakkotai (白虎隊) with over 300 young men aged 16 to 17, mostly sons of samurai. 19 of them found it hopeless to protect their hometown and committed ritual suicide on here, where people pay tribute to them since then.

The geographical division creates distinct climates and cultural differences within the prefecture. A 30-minute train brings us to Lake Inawashiro (豬苗代湖). As the fourth largest lake in Japan, the formation of it was a result of the eruption of Mt. Bandai and Mt. Nekoma between 40,000 and 50,000 years ago. One will see the reflection of Mt. Bandai on this “Heavenly Mirror Lake”.

While enjoying the stunning scenery of No. 1 Tadami River Bridge (第一只見川橋梁), which is a 135.2 kilometers railway line running between Aizu-Wakamatsu Station in Fukushima and Koide Station in Niigata, don’t forget Fukushima is a “Fruit Kingdom” for its abundance of orchards, overloaded with fruit farms of all kinds, where it is making efforts to regain its crown.