A Poem Nature Writes in Gold
“L'automne est un deuxième ressort où chaque feuille est une fleur.” Albert Camus, French Philosopher
Hanami Dango (花見団子) is a traditional Japanese rice dumpling categorized as confectionery (和菓子). The three colors: pink, white and green symbolise cherry blossoms in Spring, melting snow in winter, and plant growth in Summer respectively. Why is Autumn left out? The word “秋ない (no Autumn)” sounds identical to “飽きない (ever get bored of something)” and “商い (prosperous business)”. Wordplay explains the reason why this sweet only features three colors.
Fall is proof that change can be beautiful. While “Hanami (花見)” is a traditional Spring custom, gathering outdoors to appreciate the cherry blossoms, “Momijigari (紅葉狩り)” is a traditional Autumn custom, visiting natural areas to view the vibrant hues of leaves. Since the temperatures drop earliest in the northernmost area, Momijigari starts first in Hokkaido as early as September, before moving south toward lower elevations over the following weeks.
1/ Lake Shikotsu (支笏湖) and Jozankei Hoheikyo (定山溪豊平峡)
Both are located in the Shikotsu-Toya National Park (支笏洞爺国立公園). Formed by volcanic activity around 40,000 years ago, Lake Shikotsu spans about 40.3 km in circumference and reaches a maximum depth of 360 m. Not only is it the second deepest lake in Japan, but it also once held the title of Japan’s cleanest lake for 11 consecutive years. Standing on the lakeshore, visitors are captivated by its mesmerizing blue surface and consider it a jewel of Hokkaido.
There are 56 hot spring sources in the Jozankei district, from which 8600 L of hot water at 60 to 80°C surface each minute. Located about 7 km upstream from Jozankei Onsen, Hoheikyo Dam (豊平峡ダム) is a magnificent concrete dam ranked as the Top 100 Dam Lake. With a history of supporting life in Sapporo, whose water source originates from Toyohira River (豊平川), theory has that the city's name derived from the Ainu’s “sat-poro-pet”, which means dry and large river.
2/ Noboribetsu Hell Valley (登別地獄谷) and Lake Oyunuma (大湯沼)
It takes 1.5 hours by train from Sapporo Station. With 450-metre diameters and a 11-hectare crater, this site is created by the volcanic activity of Mount Hiyori (日和山) about 10,000 years ago. Since the Edo period, around 10,000 tons of hot spring has been pouring out and supplies to hotels and inns in the hot spring resort every day. Located in the central area, the gourd-shaped lake Oyunuma (大湯沼) is one of the iconic remains with 130℃ springs spout out intensely.
The scenery of bubbling and boiling water inspired the name “Where the demon live (鬼の棲む地獄)”. Legend has it that Jigokudani was inhabited by demon gods Yukijin (湯鬼神) who guard the medicinal baths for the Ezo Gods. When Tokitsukaze (時津風) blew, they appeared on the 88th night after the first day of spring with torches, and retrieved the illness via drumming and dancing. They would set off fireworks to pray for good fortune, resembling volcanic eruptions.
3/ City Center of Sapporo (札幌)
When in Japan, do as the Japanese do. Built in 1869, Hokkaido Shrine (北海道神宮) enshrines the “three pioneering gods” to uplift the spirit of the pioneers. It has enshrined four gods since Meiji Emperor was approved as an additional enshrinement in 1964. Be ambitious! If time allows, pay a visit to the Hokkaido University (北海道大学) where elm and gingko trees draw tourists and its museum is free. The campus was first opened as Sapporo Agricultural College in 1876.
From Suitengu Shrine (札幌水天宮), Japanese Garden (日本庭園), to Sapporo Observatory (札幌市天文台), Nakajima Park (中島公園) is an urban park that features numerous cultural facilities and historical buildings. A place to experience the natural change in the four seasons beside Otaru. To end this Momijigari trip perfectly, nothing is better than visiting the Shiroi Koibito Park (白い恋人パーク). Savor the langue de chat biscuits and await the snowy winter.
Surrounded by Mount Yotei (羊蹄山) and Mount Usu (有珠山), Lake Toya (洞爺湖) is formed by a volcanic eruption 110,000 years ago, with a circumference of about 43 km. Do greet Vulpix and Swinub as a surprise Pokémon discovery.
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