Follow Your Tohoku Path with Joban Line

Established in 1896, the Joban Line provided a land coal route from the Joban coal field to Tokyo. That coal field extended along the Pacific Coast, starting from Hitachi and ending up to Tomioka. Express passenger service began in 1954, while the coal transport ended in 1973. Taking the Joban Line is the best way to unveil Tohoku, the most underrated region in Japan.

Why is Sendai the top priority? Started as a small fishing village, the city flourished around the castle built by samurai lord Date Masamune (伊達政宗) in 1600. With Mount Aoba in the west, Tatsunokuchi Gorge in the south, and Hirosegawa River in the east, the castle was well-protected by natural fortifications, serving as the political and military base until the Meiji Restoration.

With over one million population, Sendai becomes the largest city of Miyagi (宮城県) in Northern Honshu. While the castle were demolished eventually, the Sendai Castle Ruins (仙台城蹟) has been preserved as Aobayama Park (青葉山公園). Featuring a statue of Masamune on horseback, the park offers a sweeping panorama of the city’s scenery that Masamune admired.

Renowned for his political and military achievements, Date Masamune was equally celebrated as one of the most cultured men of his era. Today, the term”Date” is used as a synonym for words meaning chic, stylish and extravagant. Not only is his armor and attire a cultural property, Sendai City Museum also showcases the valuable illustrations of the Sendai Castle and main buildings.

The founder is laid to rest in the Zuihōden Masamune (瑞鳳殿) after his death aged 70. Passing through the tree-lined avenue, one can reach the Osaki Hachimangu Shrine (大崎八幡官), a Momoyama-style architecture connected with a Date clan. Matsutaki Festival and Sendai Aoba Festival reflected how cultural legacy forged by Date extended into the lives of Miyagi residents.

Besides diving into its heyday of Date Masamune, Sendai Asaichi morning market (仙台朝市) is a great way to soak up a little culinary colour, from seafood, beef tongue to edamame shakes.

Hidden Gems: Matsushima (松島) and Tashirojima (田代島)

Consisting of 260 islands, the beauty of pine-covered Matsushima is hard to describe with words, not even haiku poet Matsuo Basho. Dive into its heyday along the coastline and connect to 3 main islands via footbridges. No wonder Date Masamune constructed a temporary residence, hosted gatherings, and passed down these profound sentiments to the subsequent lords.

Why not visit Tashirojima? Used to be a center for silkworm production, this island is a well trodden animal destination for cat lovers. No dog was allowed on the island. Residents take care of the wild cats in exchange for their protection of cocoons from rats. Go on a pilgrimage to the cat shrine, where an adjacent forest was built to honor a cat killed by a falling rock.