Embraced by the Spirit of Nature

As an indigenous group of northern Japan, Ainu has inhabited Hokkaido, northern Honshu, Sakhalin, and the Kuril Islands for many centuries. After the Meiji Restoration of 1868, the “Ezo” was renamed as “Hokkaido” and became part of Japan. Pioneers travelled north to the land of opportunity in the 1870s and 80s. Ainu worship many aspects of nature as spirit-deities, i.e. kamuy, as they believe spirits reside in everything throughout the natural world.

Lake Akan (阿寒湖)

Established in 1934, the Akan Mashu National Park is one of the oldest national parks in Japan. In the west, Lake Akan is home to marimo, a rare algae species that forms itself into green balls. After a century of attempted assimilation, the Ainu was only legally recognised as an indigenous people of Japan in 2019. Whether selling wooden handicrafts and performing at the theatre Ikor as the determined efforts for a renaissance is controversial among the locals and the tourists.

Lake Kussharo (屈斜路湖)

With a circumference of 57 km, Lake Kussharo is the largest lake in Akan Mashu National Park. Apart from fishing and kayaking around the lake, several open-air hot-spring baths can be used for free, which are located along the lakeside. When the lake is partly frozen over, large whooper swans come in close for the warmer water. Small as it is, the Ainu Folklore Museum displays a handful of artifacts highlighting various aspects of their livelihood and culture.

Lake Mashu (摩周湖)

Born from a volcanic eruption around 2000 years ago, Mashūko is considered by many as the most beautiful lake in Japan. Being a caldera lake in Akan Mashu National Park, it is one of the deepest lakes in the country, frequently blanketed in heavy fog. Known as Kamuito by the Ainu, i.e. Isle of the God, a close journey to the lake gives inspiration to the locals during hard times. Ainu believes a female spirit lives within the lake and brings bad luck with mist-covered water.

Mount Io (硫磺山)

Around a 30-minute ride from Lake Mashu, Mount Io is a hidden scenic gem. You will notice that you are nearby as soon as you smell the sulfur in the air. The mountain is a 512 m high volcano sitting inside the giant Kussharo caldera, which is called “Atosa-nupuri” in Ainu meaning “naked mountain”. The sulfurous steam vents will startle your senses. Don’t forget to sample the hot-spring cooked eggs at the visitor center to extend your experience.

The three lakes of eastern Hokkaido are a natural paradise. Ainu believes the kamuy visit the human world in the form of certain animals and natural phenomena, and therefore perform elaborate worship rituals involving song and dance to commune with the kamuy. When a visitor tries to complete the exploration of the three lakes (道東三湖制覇の旅), one should appreciate these jewels in the crown of Eastern Hokkaido with a heart full of gratitude.